Saturday, October 4, 2014

Valence to Adge



At this point, we just need a few days at the beach, so that's where we're headed. The weather looks iffy, but we'll try our hand.

We can't find our way to the chateau ruins above the hotel, so we move south along le Rhône. As we reach the town of Rochemaure, we see more ruins on the ridge.
Chateau de Rochmaure
This time we are more successful reaching the chateau.  The road up is a lane-and-a-half with turnouts.



Here, the ruins are occupied. People have restored parts of the chateau, and are using them for homes. They have quite a view.




From Rochemaure, it's on to Orange. We are getting into an area of France where the evidence of Roman occupation is much easier to find. On the north end of Orange is a Roman triumphal arch dedicated to the Emperor Tiberius.



In the center of the city is the Theater Antique, which also dates from the Romans. They still give performances in the ruins.


Lunch is at a nice spot on le Rhône. Tractors pulling wagons full of grapes go by. It's wine harvest time.


Besançon to Valence


The roads from Besançon to Valance go through quintessential backcountry France. Once again, we avoid the freeways for the most part and stick to the N and D roads. Yes, it's slower, but it's scenic going through the multitudes of small villages and towns.

Lunch in the yard of the old school
The beginning of the day is through hilly country, the Jura. We are, after all, just 20 miles from Switzerland. After lunch and passing Saint-Étienne-du-Bois, we drop down toward Le Rhône and the area of Lyon. Our objective for the night is the city of Valence. It's about 100km south of Lyon and gives us a good start on making the Med tomorrow.
Our hotel for the night is one of only two marginal places we will stay this trip. The owner is nice, but the carpet is sticky in one spot and the wifi sucks. Oh well.
On the hills above the hotel, however, are the ruins of Château de Crussol, a 13th century fortification. We'll see if we can't find a way up in the morning.



Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Munich to Besançon

Morning finds us ready to go get a new vehicle. Jayne and I are trying out a Mini convertible. Who knows, maybe we'll like it so much we'll buy one.


Both the weekend prior and last night have been spent at the Pensione Schmellergarten. Nothing fancy, but comfortable. This time we had a 4 floor walkup, since things were well booked for the beginning of Octoberfest.


Our host was named Torshelm, and was very helpful and friendly. We would definitely stay there again.

Torshelm in his lederhosen

The drive from Munich to Besançon in France is over territory we have largely traveled, but it gets us in the direction we want to go.

Besançon is an old fortified city which goes back to 58 BC or earlier, though the principle fortifications are from the time of Vauban, in about 1711. Most of the old city is in a bight of the River Doubs.




Parking is limited in these old cities. The Mini just barely fit into this courtyard and barn door.


Basel to Munich



The weather for the last day of motorcycle riding starts out wet but dries quickly. We are on the road by 10 AM, following the Rhine upstream for a few miles before we cross over into Germany again. The main bridge across the Rhine at Koblenz (Switzerland) is closed for repair, so we have to go a bit farther upstream to Zurzach to find the next crossing.


It is definitely starting to look like it will soon be fall. Leaves are starting to change even though it is not cooling off much. With the exception of our day in Basel, highs have been in the 80s.

For lunch, we find a creekside picnic spot in Biberach. It has it's own covered bridge and pathway with an ancient statue.



Poor guy had a snail crawling out of his eye

By 4 PM we are back in Munich. Jayne goes to do laundry while I turn in the bike. It was a great week in the Alps and Italy!



Meiringen to Basel



Meiringen to Basel isn't a very long trip, but it's all that is going to happen today. The weather is closing in, and our gear is not well suited for prolonged rain. So we are in Basel by noon.




As a Seattleite, I always pride myself on avoiding umbrellas. But the rain today required one. It poured.



But Basel has great chocolate and a variety of sights, so it was a good layover. We found the most spectacular dark chocolate with caramelized almonds in it. It only lasted a few days.

We also found a fire station which had a display with a current set of bunker gear and one from the late 1800's.


Basel is an old city that was once walled and fortified. It is right on the Rhine River. Well worth exploring.

City gate


France is thataway

Best Chocolate Ever at Läderach